|
|
|
|
|
2nd Day (Monday, June 16)
Sightseeing Bus Tour |
|
Twice to the bathroom during the night, I got up at 6:00, overslept than
usual.
At 8:28, we got on the shuttle bus of the local Keihan Sightseeing Co.
at the hotel to the meeting place in front of Kyoto Station.
We already reserved the sightseeing tour in the morning, which is going
to take us to Sanjusangen-do Temple and Fushimi-Inari Shrine. Our plan
for the afternoon was to visit Ginkakuji Temple, but there was no such
tour on the day.
So instead, we applied for the tour of visiting Ryoanji Temple and Nijo
Castle with mixed feelings, because we had visited both of them 3 months
ago.
This kind of bus took us to vaious scenic spots as a sightseeing tour.
- - - - -
Now, it's time to introduce the places we visited today.
For the whole introduction during the stay here in Kyoto, I owe the following.
JTB's guidebooks: "Kyoto for Walking alone" and "Kyoto for Enjoyable Walking".
The leaflets at the visited places.
Internet, mainly Wikipedia.
|
|
- - - - - - - - - - |
Sanjusangen-do Temple |
|
The official name of Sanjusangen-do is Rengeo-in temple, and the structure
is registered as a National Treasure by the Japanese Government.
It was established by the powerful warrior-politician Taira-no-Kiyomori
in 1164. The original temple building was lost in a fire, but the building
was reconstructed in 1266. That structure has remained unchanged for 700
years since then with four great renovations during that period. The long
temple hall, which is about 129 meters long, is made in the Wayo (Japanese)
style architecture. As there are thirty three spaces between columns, this
temple came to be called "Sanjusangen-do" (a hall with thirty-three
spaces between columns).
Other noteworthy objects in this temple are the roofed earthen fence and
the South Gate, which are registered as Important Cultural Properties.
They are noted in connection with Regent Toyotomi Hideyoshi and reflect
the aesthetics of the 16th century.
(The temple's pamphlet) |
|
|
This is the temple of the 1,000 Buddhist-statue Kannon dedicated to the Senju Kannon as the principal image. Senju Kannon means Thousand Armed Avalokiteshwara.
The one-story temple faces east and the height of the ridge is 15 meters.
The inner sanctuary of the temple is very oblong faraway, where over 1,000
statues of Buddha are systematically arranged in a row and are all gazing
at us. Their center is the seated statue of Senju Kannon.
I was overwhelmed rather than impressed.
To my regret, photography was not allowed inside, so I bought a book "The
Buddhas in Sanjusangen-do" at the exit.
|
|
Sanjusangen-do, Other Pictures
|
- - - - - - - - - - |
Fushimi-Inari Taisha (Shrine) |
|
Fushimi-Inari Taisha is the head shrine of Inari, located in Fushimi-ku,
Kyoto.
Since early Japan, Inari was seen as the patron of business, and merchants
and manufacturers have traditionally worshipped Inari. Each of the wooden
torii at Fushimi-Inari is donated by a Japanese business.
First and foremost, though, Inari is the god of rice.
This popular shrine is said to have as many as 32,000 sub-shrines (bunsha)
throughout Japan.
The shrine became the object of Imperial patronage
From 1871 through 1946, Fushimi-Inari was officially designated one of
the kanpei-taisha, meaning that it stood in the first rank of Government
supported shrines. |
|
|
We walked along the busy road with both sides lined by stores and entered
the temple gate.
Gorgeously vermilion-painted temple halls are seen here and there in the
precincts. Before some of them seated statues of foxes hold each in mouths
a scroll, rice and something instead of deep-fried bean curd.
We strolled around there for a while, and then headed for the famous so-called
thousand toriis. (A "torii" means a gateway at the entrance to
a Shinto shrine.)
Toriis are obviously over a thousand, which are numerous and shining brightly
in vermilion color. Each of the toriis had a donator's name and the built
date.
|
|
Fushimi-Inari Shrine, Other Pictures
|
- - - - - - - - - - |
Back to the bus terminal, our couple went down to the underground Porta
Restaurant Street in front of Kyoto Station, and not feeling hungry, we
had a simple soba-noodle lunch at the soba-restaurant "Tagoto".
The sightseeing bus in the afternoon started at 13:30 with 20-odd guests
in it.
|
- - - - - - - - - - |
Ryoanji Temple |
|
Originally a country house of the Tokudaiji Clan. It was acquired in 1450
by Hosokawa Katsumoto for use as a Zen training temple.
It was destroyed by fire during the Onin War (1467-77) and was rebuilt
in 1499.
It was registered as a World Heritage Site in 1994.
(Ryoanji Temple's pamphlet) |
|
|
|
|
The Rock Garden
The simple and remarkable garden measures only 25 meters from east to west
and 10 meters from south to north.
The rectangular Zen garden is completely different from the gorgeous gardens
of court nobles constructed in the Middle Ages. No trees are to be seen;
only 15 rocks and white gravel are used in the garden.
The walls are made of clay boiled in oil. As time went by, the peculiar
design was made of itself by the oil that seeped out.
This internationally famous rock garden was said to be created at the end
of Muromachi Period (around 1500) by a highly respected Zen monk Tokuho
Zenketsu.
(Ryoanji Temple's pamphlet) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Kyoyochi Pond
The pond was made in the late 20th century. Until recent years many mandarin
ducks were seen on the pond. Hence the Ryoanji was generally known as Oshidoridera,
the temple of mandarin ducks. The water wells out from around the two rocks
in the south. On the islet named Bentenjima is a hall, in which an image
of Sarasvati has been housed.
(Ryoanji Temple's pamphlet) |
|
|
|
|
A unique wash-basin of stone "Tsukubai"
Tsukubai, the stone wash-basin for the tea room, has a unique inscription, "I learn only to be contented" (足るを知る). He who learns to be contented is spiritually rich, while the one who does not learn to be contented is spiritually poor even if he is materially wealthy. This concept is important in the Zen spirit.
The Tsukubai is said to have been contributed by Mitsukuni Mito (1628-1700),
a feudal lord and the compiler of the great History of Japan known as "Dai-nippon-shi".
(Ryoanji Temple's pamphlet) |
|
We entered the main hall and, sitting on the porch, seriously enjoyed the dry landscape garden.
Just like this March, in spite of a number of guests, it is quiet itself
here. Foreign-looking people, about half of the guests, seemed also to
be impressed and were nodding each other.
The bulletin board says "The nunber of the stones are 15." I
was moved by their exquisit arrangement, more than that.
Ryoanji Temple, Other Pictures
|
|
石庭に邪心鎮まる夏の蝶 |
今年竹水琴窟の青き音 |
夏落葉庫裡へ誘ふ四つ目垣 |
花苔に命の雫水の音 |
水鱧や社寺を巡りて良き疲れ |
Emiko |
|
|
Not to change the subject, when we traveled in Kyoto last time in March,
we got on the "Truck Train" from Kameyama to Arashiyama first
in the morning.
After strolling around Arashiyama for 3 hours, we stopped at Ninnaji Temple
and then visited this Ryoanji Temple.
The follwing links are pictures then around there.
|
- - - - - - - - - - |
Here, I have to mention that we stopped by a certain place on the way that
time. It is Rakushisha Hut, the main purpose during walking around Arashiyama.
I will write this visit at the end of this chapter |
- - - - - - - - - - |
Nijo Castle |
|
The castle was originally built in 1603 as the official Kyoto residence
of the first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu. It was completed in 1626 by the third
Tokugawa Shogun, Iemitsu, with the addition of some structures transferred
from Fushimi Castle (built in the Momoyama period; 1573-1614). Nijo Castle
is one of the finest examples of early Edo period and Momoyama culture
in Japan, as it makes splendid use of early Edo period building designs,
lavish paintings, and carvings that Iemitsu generously commissioned.
In 1867, when Yoshinobu, the fifteenth Tokugawa Shogun, returned sovereignty
to the Emperor, the castle became the property of the Imperial family.
In 1884, it was renamed the Nijo Detached Palace. It was donated to the
City of Kyoto and renamed Nijo Castle (Nijo-jo) in 1939.
The castle was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994.
(Motorikyu Nijo-jo Office) |
|
|
Our couple visited this spot on March 30, too. It was the last spot to
visit on the last day during the 3-day tour. We walked and looked around
both the castle inside and the gardens outside completely.
This one-story castle is different from usual castles. At least it is not
a fort for the purpose of battles. Rather, it looks like a palace surrounded
by wide gardens.
Since Muromachi period (1336-1573), such clans as Ashikaga, Oda, Toyotomi
and Tokugawa built their castles here at each ruling period for showing
off their power and also apparent allegiance to the Imperial Household,
which had a significant meaning of the existence of this castle in relation
to the Imperial Family. I interpret it so.
This Nijo Castle's 3,300 square-meter Ninomaru Palace, consisting of five
connected separate buildings, is the place of the beginning and ending
of Edo (Tokugawa Shogunate) period, where Ieyasu was appointed as the Shogun
and Yoshinobu announced to return government to the Emperor.
|
|
drawn by Tonda Tanryo (Wikipedia) |
Here in the Kuroshoin Hall, the 15th shogun Yoshinobu announced to return
government to the Emperor before more than 20 important daimyoes stationed
in Kyoto, and on the next day, November 10, 1867, the Emperor gave an instruction
document showing the imperial sanction for Taisei Hokan to Yoshinobu who
visited the Imperial Palace. Thus so, Taisei Hokan was completed and Tokugawa
period ended after 165 years of government in Edo.
Our couple saw the inside of Ninomaru Palace twice in March and this time,
with such history going round in heart.
We could walk slowly around Ninomaru Garden and Honmaru Garden twice, too.
|
|
Nijo Castle, Other Pictures
Pictures as of March 30
|
- - - - - - - - - - |
The grace in the morning.
The assistant guide was Ms. YK. As there was no foreigners in this tour,
she seemed to have nothing to do and have time to kill, not being able
to make use of her special skill of English interpretation.
We began to talk sometimes on the way to Fushimi-Inari Shrine. Just on
the way back walking at some yakitori (grilled-chicken) shop, she suggested
me saying, "Why don't you eat a quail? Sorry it's over the season
of sparrows."
I bought a fresh-grilled quail and stuffed my mouth with a whole. I could
not cry "Good!", but tasted nice moderately.
I actually ate all from head to tail while walking. Emiko looked at me
strangely, but Ms. YK was happy to see me.
For myself, it is nothing strange remembering my childhood in the local
town. More than that, isn't it a kind of transmigration of nature and among
the local culture? Thinking this way, my mind was back in the early childhood.
Several days after returning home, I received her email, saying "I
have been reading your 'Viva, Seniors!'. I have ever been to Bali Island
when my childen was young, too. The story of your stay in the US seems
interesting, too.. ..."
When finishing this travelogue, I will let her know and ask a check to
her.
- - - - -
The afternoon tour was honestly like a rehash. 3 months ago we took enough
time to see both places. Nevertheless, a rehash sometimes tastes fragrant,
and this was it.
Besides, I was blessed by good fortune, too.
There was an Australian family in our afternoon members. A couple, mother
of the husband and 2 children. The wife was a Japanese, who signaled me
to talk to her husband in English. He answered me in such a smile.
First, he said they live in Caiens, northeast of Australia, and our talk
lasted lively both walking on the way and in the bus.
I told him that my father had ever worked around Arafura Sea north of Cairns
as a pearl diver for 13 years until the age of 33 and that he was baptized
by a father there and given a Christian name "Peter".
This story made us more friendly and he stuck to me until the end of the
tour.
|
- - - - - - - - - - |
Mukai Kyorai's Rakushisha
a small hut of a haiku poet Kyorai
On March 29, 3 months ago, we viewed the streaming scenery on the truck
train from Kameyama to Arashiyama.
After getting off the train at Arashiyama, we walked through the bamboo
forest for a while and stopped by at Nison-in Temple.
Then visited Rakushisha.
Emiko has a strong hobby of haiku, and I am a kind of chaser of Basho.
So, this was the spot both of us had expected to come over if there had
been any chance during the tour.
It is a different world from temples and shrines. The simple but refined
hut with a thatched roof welcomed us.
Firstly Kyorai's haiku monument came into our view. And also the one of
Basho, who was Kyorai's master and visited here three times faraway from
Edo that period.
柿主や梢はちかきあらし山 去来 |
|
五月雨や色紙へぎたる壁の跡 芭蕉 |
The following are several other pictures around Rakushisha.
Rakushisha, Other Pictures
It's time to go back. I decided to leave here even with some deep emotion.
Emiko is still unusually interested in this hut.
She seemed reluctant to leave, but finally after a while she accepted my
suggestion.
The following are Kyorai's 10 haikus at Rakushisha and Basho's 5 haikus
in his "Saga Diary".
10 haikus of Kyorai |
|
月の今宵我里人の藁うたん
初春や家に譲りの太刀はかん
手のうへにかなしく消える蛍かな
見し人も今は孫子や墓参り
いなずまやどの傾城とかり枕
鎧着てつかれためさん土用干
君が手もまじるなるべし花薄
やがて散る柿の紅葉も寝間の跡
何事ぞ花見る人の長刀
老武者と指やさゝれん玉あられ |
|
5 haikus of Basho (in Saga Diary) |
|
ほととぎす大竹藪を漏る月夜
憂き我をさびしからせよ閑古鳥
能なしの眠たし我を行行子
柚の花や昔偲ばむ料理の間
手を打てば木魂の明くる夏の月 |
|
|
|
Maybe too repetitive, but the following explanation of Kyoto City could
be some help more to understand this hut.
Rakushisha, the "Hut of Fallen Persimmons," is a famous landmark
in the world of haiku poetry. It is a simple hemitage, its walls made of
clay, its roof of thatch, in what was once a remote part of Kyoto. Less
remote today, it still possesses a sense of tranquil seclusion. On the
grounds are stone tablets inscribed with haiku, while ink-brushed poems
hung on the walls inside.
The hemitage was created by Mukai Kyorai, chief disciple of Matsuo Basho, the great master of haiku. Kyorai went into seclusion at the age of 27, and a few years later built this retreat. The house takes its name from an occasion, recorded in Kyorai's works, when he woke up to find that the persimmons of almost forty trees on his property had fallen in a storm overnight. Basho himself visited Rakushisha, and wrote his famous diary "Saga Nikki" during his stay there. It closes with a famous poem which evokes Basho's sad feelings of leaving his friend's home.
五月雨や色紙へぎたる壁の跡
Summer rain on the wall
traces of torn poem cards
In the house are tasteful monuments to Kyorai and Basho, as well as an
old straw raincoat and hat set to hang on the wall in a gesture indicating
that "the host is in." Kyorai's grave is outside on the grounds.
Many people come to Rakushisha to savor its tranquility and to try their
hand at writing some haiku, including contemporary masters of the art.
(Kyoto City Official Guide)
|
|
- - - - - - - - - - |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|