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7th Day (Saturday, July 1)
Free Plan |
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I had decided to take a walk around the hotel in the morning of the last
day.
According to the guidebook, there are several temples here and some of
them are lined near Shin-Kyogoku area.
Our plan is to visit Rokkaku-do of 15-minute walk first, and end at Honnoji.
On the way to and from the 2 temples to walk along Teramachi Street near
Shin-Kyogoku.
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| Rokkaku-do Temple |
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This is the temple said to have been founded by Shotokutaishi before Asuka
period (beginning in 592). The official name is Mount-Shiunzan Chohoji
Temple, which is called Rokkaku-do because of the Main Hall's hexagon shape.
There is Shinran-do Temple in the precincts. It is because Priest Shinran
came down from Mt. Hiei and confined himself here to pray for 100 days
in early Kamakura period (1185-1333). In the result Nyoirin-Kannon (the
Bodhisativa of Compassion) gave him a divine revelation, which was the
cause for him to open Jodo-shinshu sect.
Rokkaku-do is known as the headquarters of Ikenobo, the head family of
a school of kado (flower arrangement), too.
Ikenobo used to be the priest's name lived behind Main Hall.
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We walked a little further than the caricature in the guidebook. This temple
was the location site of the samurai drama movie (Hana Ikusa or Flower
Battle), popular lately, so even now a bulletin board and decorations were
busier than the temple.
The hero is Ikenobo Senko, the school master of Ikenobo family, casted by Mansai Nomura.
The building next to Main Hall is certainly Ikenobo's headquarters. It
is a modern glass building not matching the temple.
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Rokkaku-do Temple, Other Pictures
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Shin-Kyogoku is 15-minute walk back from Rokkaku-do. It is the leading
entertainment arcade between Sanjo and Shijo Avenue, and said to have an
unpretentious atmosphere like Asakusa in Tokyo and Sennichimae in Osaka.
This had been a temple town since the days of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Kyoto
Prefecture bought a part of the area from the temples and opened the entertainment
street named Shin-Kyogoku.
Therefore, a number of temples are lined near here. Sometono-in, Nishiki-Tenmangu
Shrine, Seishin-in, Anyoji, Myoshinji, Seiganji, etc.
We stopped in at some of them.
Shin-Kyogoku and Neighboring Temples
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| Honnoji Temple |
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This temple was Oda Nobunaga's usual hotel when he visited the Imperial
Palace in Kyoto, and is well known for the "incident of Honnoji"
when he was attacked by his vassal Akechi Mitsuhide in 1582.
It was then located around Shijo-Horikawa, and was brought here by Toyotomi
Hideyoshi. |
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Honnoji Temple is located just across Kawaramachi Street from our Kyoto
Royal Hotel. So, we had a quick look a couple of days ago.
The entrance of this side looks inconspicuous like from an alley, but the
temple inside is dignified.
It is the main temple of Honmonryu Branch of Hokke sect, originally built
at another place by Priest Nichiryu. No wonder, there was a bronze statue
of Priest Nichiren (1222-1282 in Kamakura period) with the inscription
of "立正安国" (spreading peace throughout the country by establishing
the true teaching).
When Oda Nobunaga is said to have been defeated by Akechi Mitsuhide and
killed himself by his own sword, it was located at the other place and
then Toyotomi Hideyoshi moved it here, like mentioned before.
Surely dignified Mausoleum of Nobunaga came out to me.
Honnoji Temple, Other Pictures
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Now it is time for us to leave Kyoto.
Checked out the hotel at 11:00, and headed for Kyoto Station by subway.
By the time of the 15:28 Shinkansen Nozomi, I really want to visit 2 temples
near the station. They are Nishi-Honganji and Higashi-Honganji.
But we took too much time for lunch and it made me hasty.
Emiko wanted to rest at the station waiting room, so I decided to go there
by myself.
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| Nishi-Honganji Temple |
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This temple is designed to impress the finest example of Momoyama period
(1573-1603) architecture in Kyoto.
It features large buildings, elaborate gates with gold trim, gilded alters,
painted statues, and a host of other items designated as National Treasures,
including the oldest Noh stage in Japan.
Nishi-Honganji Temple is the headquarters of the ShinBuddhism, which has
the largest number of adherents of any sects in Japan. If you spend some
time on the wide tatami mat in front of the alter in the main hall and
bask in the splendor of the decoration, you would feel the power of this
influential spiritual movement. Perhaps one can even catch a glimpse of
the "Pure Land", the Buddhist heaven, the elaborate display is
meant to evoke.
The temple was founded in 1272 by the daughter of Shinran, the sect's founder.
Shinran's teachings were simpler than the doctrines of other Buddhist schools
and became very popular with the poor. His influence grew rapidly, and
in time the ruling shoguns began to fear the temple's influence. Thus the
sect was divided into two schools, with a rival temple, Higashi-Honganji,
being established close by. As evidenced by its stunning decorations however,
Nishi-Honganji has continued to prosper.
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Nishi-Honganji Temple, Other Pictures
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| Higashi-Honganji Temple |
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The Higashi-Honganji complex is the head temple of the Otani-ha branch of the Jodo Shinshu, ShinBuddhism, which is popularly known as Ohigashi-san. This was built on the donated land, which the 12th abbot, Kyonyo, received from Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo period (1603-1868).
While the Founder's Gate (Goei-do-mon) is one of the three largest in Kyoto,
the Founder's Hall is one of the world's largest wooden structures, containing
927 tatami mats and the wooden image of Shinran,
the founder of this denomination. Amida Hall, located next to it, is where
Amida Buddha is enshrined. Both of these present Halls were rebuilt in
1895. Hair ropes, made from human hair mixed with hemp and used in that
construction, were donated by parishioners from all over the country. One
of these can be seen in Amida Hall. The renovation of the Founder's Hall
was completed in 2009. And then, the repair work of Amida Hall was conducted
from 2012 to 2015.
Shosei-en Garden is the detached garden of Higashi-Honganji and was designated as a place of National Scenic Beauty in 1936. It is also called Kikoku-tei (the Trifoliate Orange Villa) as the site was originally surrounded by this particular variety of orange trees.
This garden is said to have been built on the Heian-period site of Rokujo Kawara-no-in Villa of Prince Minamoto-no-Toru, the son of Emperor Saga. In 1641, the 13th abbot, Sennyo, requested Ishikawa Jozan to create a garden on this land, which had been donated by the 3rd shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu.
However, the various structures there were destroyed twice by fire in 1858
and 1864 and the present construction took place during the Meiji period
(1868-1912). This garden is filled with many kinds of flowers of the year,
and the colorful scenery is highly appreciated.
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Higashi-Honganji Temple, Other Pictures
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I visited the further Nishi-Honganji Temple first.
I had thought it was not far from Kyoto Station, but it took 20 minutes.
I have to be in time for the Shinkansen train since my wife, Emiko, is
waiting at the station. Nevertheless, I do want to see these temples. So,
the time is limited with no room in my mind.
Such impatience made the visit to the two temples superficial. To be honest,
I only took pictures at both temples.
I would never fail to have enough time there to worship with Emiko next
time.
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I would like to add a word in connection with Nishi-Honganji Temple.
There may be very few people who don't know Tsukiji-Honganji Temple in
Tokyo. Its appearance is unusual, far from the Japanese temple style. So,
this temple reconfirms that Chuta Ito was truly an extraordinary architect.
My painstaking novel "The Auditorium Where Monsters Live" persued
the history of Kanematsu Auditorium in the Kunitachi campus of Hitotsubashi
University in the suburbs of Tokyo. He was the professor of Tokyo Imperial
University at that time and was admired as a giant in the architectural
field. Why did such an authority accept the whole work of the construction
of this auditorium? Why did he commute on a local train spending 2 hours
for one way from Hongo, the center of Tokyo, to the then remote Musashino
wilderness even sacrificing his weekend?
Apart from the self-proclaimed painstaking work, the details with historical
background charmed me completely.
Tsukiji Honganji is under the direct control of Nishi-Honganji. Chuta Ito
was requested its construction by Kozui Otani, its 22nd head and his important
financial supporter.
I believe this building style has deep relations with the fact that both
of them were fascinated by the Indian temple architecture and admired it.
I have decided to write "Chuta Ito and Kyoto" in the next chapter.
Surely I will visit Kyoto in the near future again, so then I am looking
forward to the close visit to these 2 temples, too.
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