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4. Extra |
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Masa achieved the pilgrimage of Camino de Santiago along French Way yesterday.
This chapter is for his another Camino de Santiago along Finisterre Way
from Santiago de Compostela to Muxia facing the Atlantic Ocean, his final
destination place of pilgrimage, (121.8 km away) for 5 days.
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date |
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destination of the day |
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distance |
25th, Sat.
June 18 |
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Walking in Santiago de Compostela |
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Today is my rest day.
Got up past 7:00 while others were sleeping.
Breakfast of toast at 8:00.
Then wash clothes to wear at home, and leave the albergue at 9:00. I am
going to stay here tonight, too.
First of all, made sure of my tomorrow's route. Then went to the park on
a hill. Found the best spot for the picture of the Cathedral.
Then went down the slope and strolled downtown.
Came to Obradoiro Square and entered the Cathedral.
It is in the middle of Mass. So solemn. Wonderful hymn songs. There are
many tourists here.
After that, strolled downtown again, drank beer at a cafe and took a nap
at the albergue.
Dinner at a nearby restaurant. A frankfurter, sunny-side up eggs with a
drink of blanco (white) wine. Blanco is my first time here
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date |
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destination of the day |
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distance |
26th, Sun.
June 19 |
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From Santiago de Compostela
To Negreira |
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22.4 km |
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Though not necessary to be in a hurry from today, got up at 5:30.
Start at 6:10 after eating the leftover raisin bread.
Going to follow the Camino de Fisterra (Finisterre Way) from today.
But I lost my way at the beginning. It is Sunday, so nobody around. A senior
lady appeared in the morning mist and gestured the right way for me. I
really thanked her and God.
Very few pilgrims on the way.
The bridge before Ponte Maceira with the dam is beautiful. Tourists are
taking pictures around.
Entered the town Negreira and took a rest at a bar eating a hamburger.
After a while, began looking for an albergue and found one easily. A little
bit earlier, a lady staff was still cleaning. But she welcomed me. 10 euro.
Under the landlady's advice "The supermarket is closed at 14:00 because
of Sunday," went there after washing clothes.
I paid less than 5 euro for cerveza, agua, yogurt, and apples.
While drinking cerveza (beer), saw the followers arrived one after another.
Dinner at a nearby bar. Order plato of loin. Grilled meat is delicious.
Wine the master recommends, too.
Back to the albergue, met a Japanese cyclist. He is from Gunma Prefecture,
saying "I started from Barcelona and running 80 km a day. I am slow."
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27th, Mon.
June 20 |
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From Negreira
To Olveiroa |
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33.1 km |
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Start at 6:10 after eating the leftover bread and yogurt.
Walked for 13 km at a stretch. On the way I felt terrible pain on the left
shoulder. It didn't cure at all in spite of anything I did including putting
a handkerchief there, which made me gloomy.
At a bar, zumo with a sandwich stuffing tuna.
When I replaced the water bottle from left to the top of the rucksack,
the pain was immediately cured. Only a little bit of imbalance. Lucky!
I got at ease when the dam of Fervenza appeared down over the hill. But
the way was still long afterward.
Passed a muni albergue by mistake and got back by the advice of a local
person.
The check-in time is from 19:00, but could enter it and choose the bed
by the advice of a lady pilgrim. Then took a nap.
And noticed many pilgrims coming in to stay here.
To my regret, my bed is very near the dirty cowshed. The smell troubled
me through the night.
Come to think of it, I noticed there were cow dungs here and there on the
road after entering Galicia.
Dinner at the same bar of drinking beer at noon. Pasta, pork, wine.
Paid the staying charge and into bed though a little ealier.
Smell! Too much different compared with the fresh cries of seagulls the
next day at Cee.
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28th, Tue.
June 21 |
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From Olveiroa
To Cee |
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18.3 km |
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Start at 7:00 as planned to stay at Cee tonight. It's not far.
A bar on the way, but I passed it, and over the hill the Atlantic Ocean
appeared to my eyes. I got moved!
The port of Cee is beautiful, too.
Decided to stay in A Casa da Fonte downtown.
It is still before noon. But I was welcomed. 11 euro for a bed in a wide
and relaxing room.
After drinking beer in a fridge at the front, went to the beach and took
a nap on the bench.
Lunch of pizza bought frozen at a supermarket (2.6 euro) and heated up
here. Unexpectedly delicious.
Dinner at the albergue. Home-made dish with a glass of vino, salad and
pasta.That's all and just so so.
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29th, Wed.
June 22 |
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From Cee
To Fisterra |
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20.0 km |
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Slow start at 7:10.
Just walk along the seacoast with a sand beach until Fisterra, the today's
destination.
The xunta albergue looking for was in front of the city office where I
got a stamp. But passed it and checked in the albergue of Arasolis in the
flyer received at the albergue last night.
Leaving the rucksack here, went to the lighthouse only with a camera and
water.
The cape can be seen over there.
A lady took my pictures. She stayed in the same albergue last night.
The landscape of the lighthouse from the hilltop is wonderful. I am sure
it is in the picturecard, too.
Back to the albergue, shower and wash-clothes as usual.
After a while, walked along the beach, seeing children swimming at the port.
Dinner at a nearby bar. Salad, fish and cake of postre. 10 eoro of satisfaction.
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30th, Thu.
June 23 |
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From Fisterra
To Muxia |
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28.0 km |
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Only 28 km from Fisterra to Muxia. But it gave me an unexpected hard time.
Bushes through the way with no signboard. When I came to an open space,
I could not recognize what this village was. After a while, I met a pilgrim
on the same way. It made me at ease at last.
But then I lost my way a couple of times. Each time some ladies and men helped me. Finally when I got lost near Muxia, a lady about 100 meters across a field signaled to the left way. I cried to her "Gracias!"
And even at the end of the road, another lady advised me the right way
saying "You are going wrong way." God blesses me.
While walking along the seashore, various flowers are in bloom. Petals
of evening primrose are surprisingly big. Hydrangeas are impressive with
the sea under the cloudy sky in the background.
I entered Muxia around 13:00 and checked in the albergue near a supermarket
for 2 nights.
The landlord asked me in a smile what I drink. This way of hospitality
is my first time.
I got confused at first and said "Beer, please." Beer was served
with an appetizer. I was so impressed.
Dinner at a restaurant with a sign of 9 euro.
A lady staff seems to ask my choice, but neither of us can understand each other at all. Then she takes me to the kitchen and lets me see the various contents in the saucepans.
All of the dishes were so delicious. Rice dish, meat in seasoned broth.
Pudding of house-made was also wonderful. I was totally satisfied.
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121.8 km, 5 days
(subtotal from Santiago de Compostela to Muxia) |
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904.5 km, 29 real walking days
(total of French Way plus Finisterre Way) |
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Friday, June 24 |
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Walking in Muxia |
Masa's pilgrimage "Camino de Santiago" was ended yesterday.
He is going to have a rest today and to enjoy walking in Muxia.
It is raining this morning. I am walking toward the Corpino hill.
Santuario de Nuestra Senora da Barca has appeared.
There are tourists here to my surprise, seeing the sights around the cathedral. They came all the way here.
I am in a Gore's raincoat instead of the umbrella which was broken at some
albergue. I am satisfied that I have made use of every equipment I prepared
for this pilgrimage.
Fresh cries of seagulls the whole day.
While I was resting in bed, some girl asked me saying "I suppose you
are a Japanese. Could I use the antiseptic if you have?" She was bitten
a little bit on her leg on the way from Fisterra. The affected part is
swollen a bit. I gave her Mercurochrome.
She, from Niigata Prefecture, is going to Port from now. She has been walking
all the way without any guidebook nor a map. Unbelievable. She says it
was good enough with the guide map from the office at St.-Jean. She finally
arrived at Santiago de Compostela spending 40 days.
She also told me that she had a hard time not to get out of the toilet
because of the broken key.
She took the picture of "Roads in Portugal" of my guidebook.
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Saturday, June 25 |
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From Muxia (by bus)
To Santiago de Compostela |
Masa is going back to Santiago de Compostela.
He got on the 7:45 bus (8 euro) and arrived here at 9:30.
Found an albergue for 2 nights (22 euro). Checked in at 12:00. Top of the
bunk bed.
A Japanese lady calls to me near the cathedral. She, Ms. Iida from Kanazawa,
says she met me at Brugos. She has just arrived here spending 28 days totally.
I am sure she could walk fast as a lady.
Lunch at the same restaurant before.
Then walked for shopping souvenirs. During the time I stopped at a museum,
where there was a certain exhibition of Kumano-Kodo. Why don't they exhibit
Shikoku pilgrimage of 88 temples?
Bought wine at a supermarket because I stay here 2 nights. Got drunk before
dinner.
Dinner at a nearby bar. Plato with French omlet..
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Sunday, June 26 |
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Walking in
Santiago de Compostela |
The last day in Spain.
Masa is busy enjoying Santiago de Compostela the whole day.
Girls are still in bed. Hesitated, but finally get up at 7:00.
After breakfast and strolling around, I visit the Cathedral to join the
Mass.
Father preaches before standing worshipers. Few tourists here.
Then luckily botafumeiro has begun. I could not get a good shot of the
incense burner, but I am happy to be here now.
Visit to the same museo yesterday.
The pictures of the painter Ikeda are so good. The picture of the view
at Totsukawa, Nara Prefecture, shows how closely he is related to this
museo. It was painted in 1983.
The market is day-off to my regret. Bought several foods at a souvenir
shop. As for souvenirs, too many and heavy already to take them all to
my home in Japan.
Lunch of hamburger complete at a cafe. Back to the albergue, drink wine,
and then take a nap.
Dinner at a small restaurant downtown. Nice dish of fish. 7 euro with coffee.
Drank too much, so went to the toilet several times in the night. Didn't
sleep well. But all right.
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Monday, June 27 |
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From Santiago de Compostela
To Paris (via Madrid) |
It is a moving day to return for Masa.
Got up a little over 7:00.
Equipped myself for the return trip, ate sponge cake, and got started.
Got on the bus to the airport. Only 3 people got off there.
Spend time eating tortilla and check in the baggage. I am light now.
Stroll around the small local airport, then write a diary, read a guidebook,
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The plane is Iberian Express, an LCC. Flight is 2 hours at an aisle seat.
The transfer time at Madrid Airport to Paris was short, but no problem.
I have to look for a hotel near Paris Airport. As advised, there is a signboard
of IBIS in front.
I asked if any inexpensive room for one night. The answer was only the
room of 139 euro. I paid for the room reluctantly. A poor room compared
with a high hotel charge.
Dinner of carbonara at the restaurant on the 1st floor.
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Tuesday, June 28 |
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Lv. Paris (by Air France) |
Masa is getting back to Japan from Paris for 36 days away abroad.
First thing I did was to make sure of the procedure to board the plane
at the airport, where I had breakfast. Then I got back to the hotel, did
packing and checked out.
At the check-in machine in the airport, a lady staff helped me handle it.
It had a Japanese description. I am regretfully in the middle seat.
Soldiers with guns, policemen and security guards are coming and going.
I understood they are on the alert for terrorist activity.
The flight left the runway 1 hour late.
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Wednesday, June 29 |
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Ar. Narita Airport
(38th day since leaving Japan
on Monday, May 23) |
Masa finally returned to Narita Airport and saw his wife Fumiko-san there
waiting for him.
Landed at Narita, finished the baggage claim and went through customs all
smoothly. Surprised Fumiko is waiting at the arrival lobby.
If without Fumiko here, I might have wept to see my house after 38 days
away. But with Fumiko, I felt relaxed at home.
My pilgrimage of Camino de Santiago has just ended.
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Masa's Various Thoughts and Overall Impressions
during his Pilgrimage for 30 days
1. I had a lot of unexpected help during the whole pilgrimage, which saved
me in a crisis and when got lost. This pilgrimage makes me think that I
have been living by the help of many people without consciousness. I am
full of thanks.
2. So many lady pilgrims, young and old. I admired senior ladies walking
at their pace.
I envied couples walking slowly helping each other.
So many cycling pilgrims. The routes, albergues and mountain passes were
arranged for cycling, too. It is a culture here.
3. Many of the pilgrims were walking nimbly, leaving their baggage to a
transporter. It is good to have pilgrimage fit to each person. Pilgrimage
was not only training nor religeous austerities.
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Masa reported his pilgrimage at the meeting of Asociacion de Amigos del
Camino de Santiago en Japon with a screen.
The following is some of what he pointed out. |
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Newly Known and Done during Pilgrimage
1. Albergues were mostly no trouble. Arrived around 13:00 - 14:00. Left
around 6:00.
2. Stayed at various albergues --- Muni. (Albergue municipal), Xunta (Albergue
de la Xunta de Galicia), Conv. (Albergue en un convento o monasterio),
Par. (Albergue parroquial), Asoc. (Albergue de una asociacion) and Priv.
(Albergue privado).
3. Menu for pilgrims --- primero, segundo and postre at the cost of about
10 euro with all-you-can-drink vino.
4. All my prepared pilgrimage equipment worked out in the end.
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If Getting Lost
Kindness and Help of Local People
1. When wondering about getting lost, have a courage to return to the previous
arrow.
2. Spanish people are kind. They called out to me while I was wandering.
* In the dark morning, a senior watching over sprinkling water immediately
got out of his car, and advised that I was going along a different road.
* A driver of a tractor directed the right way from above, and also someone
in the field 100 meters away.
* Early Sunday morning on a street with no person around, I was at a loss
for the direction. A senior lady appeared from the mist. She was really
the Virgin Mary to me.
Anyway, don't hesitate to say "Donde esta aqui?", even in English or Japanese.
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Trouble
1. Bedbugs
2. Clothes lost in an albergue. Stolen?
3. The rucksack nearly run off with at a bar.
According to a lady pilgrim,
1. A man was hiding in the field.
2. The key in the toilet was broken, which locked her inside.
3. Bitten by a dog off its leash.
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Reading : 33' 01" |
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Raeding Total : 108' 02" |
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