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2. First Half of the French Way |
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Camino de Santiago along the French Way is shown in the following map by
the red line.
From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, the way leads west to the Cathedral
in Santiago de Compostela, Spain, in which the shrine of the apostle St.
James the Great is enshrined.
(As mentioned in the previous chapter, Masa additionally has the plan to
go further west to Muxia to see the Atlantic Ocean along Finisterre Way.)
His Camino de Santiago (782.7 km) is divided into 2 chapters.
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From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Calzadilla de la Cueza |
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(393.2 km) --- this chapter |
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From Calzadilla de la Cueza to Santiago de Compostela |
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(389.5 km) --- next chapter |
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So, this chapter shows the first half of French Way until the town Calzadilla
de la Cueza for 12 days.
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Wednesday, on May 25, 2016.
Choosing the French Way, Masa (Masaaki Sakuma) started his pilgrimage from
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port at 7:00 am.
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date |
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destination of the day |
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distance |
1st, Wed.
May 25 |
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From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
To Roncesvalles |
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25.0 km |
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Got up at 6:00. Breakfast at 6:30. Bread with cheese, coffee and yogurt.
After buying 2 bottles of water and bocadillo (bread with ham and cheese)
at a bakery, left the albergue at 7:00.
Crossed the Pyrenees at 11:00, but did not feel hard because of a gentle
slope.
Got to the albergue at Roncesvalles at 13:00. It seems to be affiliated to a monastery.
Dinner at the restaurant Casa Sabine at 19:00 after the Mass.
Went to bed at 20:00.
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2nd, Thu.
May 26 |
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From Roncesvalles
To Larrasoana |
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27.0 km |
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After breakfast, left the albergue nearly 8:00.
Had to be careful, especially in the town, not to take a wrong road. So,
walked behind some pilgrims apparently to the same way.
The pictures are at a bridge in Zubiri.
It is rather difficult to follow the way because of unvague indications.
Took a wrong road and so overwalked 2.5 km.
The albergue here in Larrasoana is just for stay.
Found the flags of all nations with Korean without Japanese one. It made
me feel there are many Korean pilgrims. Besides, few Japanese.
Dinner at a nearby restaurant. There are brothers from the US, a talkative
guy from Austria and women from Slovakia walked together on the way. They
talk a lot, different from the quiet dinner yesterday. I joined not knowing,
lured by their cheerful talk.
Thanks to the wine during chatting, I had a good sleep
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3rd, Fri.
May 27 |
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From Larrasoana
To Zariquiegui |
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27.1 km |
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Started at 6:07.
Breakfast on the way at a village of Irotz.
Arieta, a town along a river, is fine. I may have been better to stay here
last night.
There are many scallop signs on the streets downtown, which are with an arrow sign and buried under the road.
Lunch near the castle wall just after the Magdalena bridge. I am in the
town Pamplona, famous for Bull-Running Festival.
Thirsty. Drank a small mug of cerveza (beer) at a bar in Cizuru.
Really hot on the road along wheat fields. The sunglasses are helpful.
Going over the pass with a windmill on top, I got to Uterga early in the
afternoon, where I found an albergue and was accepted to stay.
Dinner in the albergue at 19:00. Salad, meatball, fried potatoes, yogurt,
with wine and agua. Only myself.
Into bed just after 20:00. |
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4th, Sat.
May 28 |
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From Zariquiegui
To Villatuerta |
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31.0 km |
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Started at 5:45.
It is dim until Perdon Pass. Looking back, I can see the lights in Pamplona
here and there.
It was getting lighter gradually during going down the pass.
Walking while eating bread, I was already in Puente la Reina, certainly
an old town. Bought a picture postcard and sent it after having a hard
time to find the post office.
Ate sandwich at the Princess Bridge seen in the picture postcard which
is also the town's name, and restarted the walk in the wheat fields.
Flowers by the wayside were beautiful, though I didn't take pictures of
each flower. It must be their season.
In the park downtown, too many balls of dust from branches of large trees!
They cover the roadside, floating before my eyes. (I noticed afterward
the tree was populus nigra.)
Lorca was my today's destination, but it was 13:00 yet. I decided to go
further to Villatuerta.
Though other pilgrims were going to the city Estella, I found an albergue
here, a very nice private one. (12 euro)
Not a bunk bed, a good shower facility like a hostel.
I am now writing a diary sitting at a porch viewing down a stream.
Dinner at 19:30. The table was with 2 gentlemen. We drank wine considerably
in a friendly way, but I could not follow their talk to my regret.
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5th, Sun.
May 29 |
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From Villatuerta
To Torres del Rio |
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32.8 km |
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Sound sleep until 5:40. Started from the albergue at 6:15.
Breakfast at a bar in Estella.
Began today's pilgrimage at 7:30.
Wine drinking at Fuente del Vino in Irache.
Walking in Losarcos, I found people were spreading flower petals before
the Maria bronze statue of a church. Some festival today?
In addtion, I noticed a cathedral was in the midst of Mass, where Father
was preaching against the golden altar. Hymns were wonderful.
Unexpectedly, there are many cycling pilgrims. The mountain pass is parted by walking and cycling lanes.
Decided to stay at an albergue with a bar in Navarrete.
Walk in the rain for dinner at a nearby restaurant at 7:00 pm.
A French gentleman and a Mexican lady with a daughter are at the same table.
They talk to each other in English.
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6th, Mon.
May 30 |
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From Torres del Rio
To Navarrete |
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33.3 km |
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Got up at 5:20.
When about to start, I noticed my cap was lost. Though a lady pilgrim found
it for me at last, it took me an extra time.
Ate breakfast of croissant at a cafe in front of a church in Viana, and
then entered Logrono.
After various loss time, got to a muni albergue in Navarrete under the
advice of a local person. She was kind.
Dinner at a nearby restaurant at 19:20. A pleasant manager selected the
primera and paella for me.
Sat at the table next to 8 American people from California.
Paella is good with 2 shrimps and several blue mussels, and the yogurt postre, too, with chocolate. Totally, 12 euro with wine. |
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7th, Tue.
May 31 |
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From Navarrete
To Santo Domingo de la Calzada |
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38.4 km |
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Got up at 5:10 for the toilet.
Breakfast of tortilla with potatoes at a cafeteria on the way.
Walked up and down along wheat fields and vineyards. This long way tired
me, and it was Najera just after the bridge.
Lunch at a square in Azofra. Then again, bored with up-and-down roads through
Cruena and Calzada.
Though planned to stay in Ciruena, I passed it and finally got to Santo
Domingo de la Calzada at 14:30.
Found a new and large albergue with the accomodations for 210 people. 7
euro. But the top bunk bed unfortunately.
Dinner at a restaurant nearby. Salad and poke dish with vinotinto. 11 euro.
Into bed at 21:00.
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8th, Wed.
June 1 |
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From Santo Domingo de la Calzada
To Villafranca Montes de Oca |
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34.8 km |
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Got up at 5:00, finding to be stung on the arms, legs and body by fleas
or bedbugs. Strange, this albergue is brand-new.
Started at 6:00.
Dim, is that why I lost my way along the fields?
A senior gentleman, getting out of a car, advised me with big gestures.
I thanked him very much.
Breakfast just before Belorado. Bread with ham and cheese.
After checking in at an albergue, entered a nearby bar to drink beer. "You
are a Korean, right?" Someone asked me. In fact the signs in the Hangul
alphabet seen in most of albergues. Many more Korean pilgrims than the
Japanese because of many Christians in Korea?
After taking a nap, bought water and sponge cake for tomorrow at a supermarket opened at 17:30.
Dinner at a restaurant at 19:30. TV was broadcasting the movie "Rio
Bravo" starred by John Wayne.
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9th, Thu.
June 2 |
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From Villafranca Montes de Oca
To Brugos |
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39.7 km |
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Got up at 5:15 by noises of several pilgrims around. Long walk expected
today because of about 40 km to Brugos.
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Contrary to my worry of 40 km a day, I could walk without any trouble,
but the last 6 km after entering Brugos was hard to me, because of the
difficulty to find the albergue. I had to ask if I passed it to local people
a couple of times. "Donde esta aqui?"
To my happiness, the albergue is very near Cathedral de Brugos, one of
the 3 Grand Cathedrals with the ones at Toledo and Sevilla. Now I have
visited all of them.
(Lucky!, the bed today is bottom.)
Dinner at a restaurant of "9 euro". But not inexpensive. Meat
ball was poor with no bread, and extra wine and agua cost me a considerably
additional charge.
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10th, Fri.
June 3 |
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From Brugos
To Hontanas |
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31.8 km |
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Got up at 5:15 by noises around as usual.
A certain Japanese lady talked to me at the front desk. I remember she
was walking with a Korean lady talking in English yesterday.
Answering my question "What is your destination?", she said "For
now to San Sebastian by bus. Finally to Fisterra." She is from Kanazawa.
We started at 6:15.
Got to the town Tardajos at 8:30. I already walked for 11 km at a time.
Breakfast at a bar. A sunny-side up egg, bread with bacon on top.
Tried to withdraw some money at ATM, but could not succeed.
Got to Hornillos del Camino at 11:30. It means I walked 21 km in total
now.
After a plateau, finally got to Hontanas on a basin and found a muni albergue.
After choosing a bed by the window, took a shower and washed clothes as
usual, then took a nap.
Woke up at 16:30, and found no pants here washed just a while ago! Stolen?
I followed the other pilgrims to a restaurant, and found they are from
France, UK, Italy, US, and Korea. Pleasant dinner meeting.
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11th, Sat.
June 4 |
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From Hontanas
To Fromista |
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34.6 km |
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Got up at 5:00 and started at 6:00.
Passed a ruin of a church and noticed the ruin of a castle in Castrojeris.
It is one of the highlight views this time. I took several photos on the
way as a matter of fact. After passing the ruin, on the Mostelares Pass
I asked someone to take my figure looking back. I am happy it's the same
figure in the guidebook. (Why? No such picture in my camera.)
Entered the first bar at Itero del la Vega. Ordered con leche and a donut,
and then toilet. This has become my usual morning pattern.
Walk and walk along the road surrounded by wheat fields.
In Boadilla del Camino entered a bar to satisfy the thirst, then someone
called me saying "Are you a Japanese?" in Japanese. He was Mr.
Moriyama from Nara Prefecture (aged 68).
His dish looked delicious, so I ordered the same, saying "Naranja"
to a waiter. But he brought a different and expensive one.
On the road to Fromista along a river I felt refreshing. But on the contrary,
hundreds of cyclists began to run in a full speed. Dangerous! Any cycling
race? Not that kind.
They were busy talking freely and actively in the park just before the
town.
Arrived at an albergue at 13:30. Earlier than usual. Following people came
one after another including Mr. Moriyama. Two of us promised to get together
at a bar right away and drank a large mug of beer with a pizza.
He found the ATM for me at the street corner, and I could withdraw 300
euro very easily this time. Happy.
It began raining.
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12th, Sun.
June 5 |
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From Fromista
To Calzadilla de la Cueza |
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37.6 km |
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Got up at 5:00 and started right away.
On the way after the town, some elderly told me "You are going wrong
way." I had confidence, so I answered "You are wrong." In
the result, my opinion was proved right. He accepted to go following me.
Anyway our destination place is to the west against the morning sunshine.
At Sirga, we parted and I entered into a bar for breakfast. Tortilla and
con leche (3 euro), and then toilet.
Kept walking on the road with fine scallop signs until Carrion de los Condes.
I found a grocery store and could buy water at last. 0.6 euro.
It is hard to walk along a straight way under the scorching sun. No front-runners.
Cycling group is passing me. In the shade of a tree I bit a cookie which
almost choked me.
Slacking a little and slow pace of walking. Sleepy road.
Go, go, to Santiago!
Finally found a muni albergue somewhere around Cueza.
Yes, I am in Calzadilla de la Cueza.
Shower, washing clothes, and then beer.
Dinner at a bar next door. Pasta and a plate of meat ball + vino tinto.
7.5 euro.
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393.2 km, 12 days
(subtotal from St-Jean to Caldadilla) |
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Other Pictures on the Way
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Reading : 28' 54" |
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