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Part 0 |
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Outline of the Trip |
Part 1 |
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1st Day (Nikka Whisky Distillery) |
Part 2 |
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2nd Day (Matsushima, Zuiganji Temple) |
Part 3 |
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3rd Day (Goshiki-numa Ponds) |
Part 4 |
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Basho's "Ah, Matsushima!", Supermoon |
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Part 2 Second Day, Sep. 28 |
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The morning came at Ryokusui-tei Hotel in Akiu Spa.
Our schedule today is:
In the morning, cruising in Matsushima Bay, and visiting Zuigan-ji Temple.
In the afternoon, Visiting Shiogama Shrine on the way, and then going south
to the hotel near Goshiki-numa Ponds in Fukushima Prefecture.
Our couple's seat of the bus is luckily the front row today. We are going
to have the best view the whole day.
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Matsushima Islands
Left Akiu Spa at 9:15, we passed by Sendai City to the west and arrived
at Matsushima Bay a little after 10:00.
We have to thank the fine autumn weather. No necessity to wear long sleeves.
Matsushima is a generic term of over 260 islands scattered in and out this
bay. The view here is one of the three most scenic spots in Japan.
In the bay the water depth is within 10 meters. It shows the topography
made by land subsidences little by little each time of earthquakes throughout
the long history. But it doesn't seem to remain the scars of the big earthquake
4 years ago.
I must have been here at least once but I don't remember anything, though
Matsushima of Kishu at Nachi-Katsuura, Wakayama Pref., near my hometown,
is imprinted on my mind.
Emiko also seems to have no clear memory on Matsushima.
Our couple decided to get on the cruiser around Matsushima Islands starting
at 10:30, making use of the free time.
Since the cruising planned for about 50 minutes, we can most probably visit
Zuiganji Temple later.
The cruiser "The 3rd Basho Maru" carried 80% of 300-people capacity.
I put my baggage in the guest room and decided to take a view of the sea
and islands at the deck on the 2nd floor under the bright sunshine.
I enjoyed the pleasant cruising until coming back to the wharf for nearly
1 hour.
At key points the information was announced by a beautiful voice, but I
was busy taking photos of scenic points changing rapidly right and left.
The cruising was going to be over when I came to my senses.
Matsushima Bay, Other Pictures
Matsuo Basho, a giant of haikai (haiku or hokku poem) in Edo Period, dropped in and enjoyed cruising around the bay during his travel to the north and left a beautiful passage in his famous travelogue "Oku-no-hosomichi" (The Narrow Road to Oku). However his haiku here is never found. The common understanding is that he lost his words viewing too wonderful sights.
To be honest, I wondered why, because I did not think it was such a view
making Basho lose his words even if it was very wonderful.
I admit I took a cynical view then and my impression was selfish all right,
but I have decided to write my thought titled "Basho's Ah Matsushima!"
in the last chapter.
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Zuiganji Temple
The entrance to Zuiganji Temple was within 10 minutes from the wharf of
Matsushima Cruising.
This temple, a famous Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple in Matsushima, is officially
called as Seiryuzan Zuiganji, and is commonly referred to as Zuiganji Temple.
The following is the summary of the temple's guidebook.
Zuiganji is a Zen temple of the Myoshinji sect of Rinzaishu Buddhism, the
formal name of which is Matsushima Seiryuzan Empukuji.
At the beginning of the Heian Era (828), the great Buddhist priest, Jikaku
Daishi Ennin, established the original temple belonging to Tendai Buddhism.
In the middle of the 13th century, the mid-Kamakura Era, Assistant Governor
Hojo Tokiyori ordered the temple converted to a Zen temple of the Kenchoji
sect.
He also appointed Buddhist monk Hosshin Shosai, whose lay name was Makabe
Heishiro, as the head priest.
Under the protection of the Kamakura Shogunate, Empukuji thrived. In the
Muromachi Era, it ranked among the "Ten Greatest Zen Temples"
in the Gozan-jissetsu" ranking system.
It even had its own offshoot temples. But during the Age of Civil War,
its influence gradually declined. Eventually, it was taken over by the
Myoshinji sect.
At the beginning of Edo Era, Date Masamune completed the present Buddhist
Zen temple on the recommendation of the Zen priest Kosai Soitsu, Masamune's
mentor.
Masamune became the founder of the Sendai Clan, whose fief yielded 620,000
koku of rice.
In accordance with Masamune's last wishes, the great Zen prieat Ungo (1582-1659)
became the chief priest of the temple in 1636. As the result of the chief
priest's efforts, the temple became a major Zen temple of the Tohoku district,
both in name and reality, with Entsuin, Yotokuin, and Tenrinin temples
built in the surrounding areas.
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Passing through the temple gate, the caverns of 100 meters appeared on the right. There were Kannon Statue, 33 Statues of Saigoku (Western Region), Hosshin Cave, etc.
The statue of Jizo was sitting just before the Main Hall. It was cast and built in 1863, in commemoration of the priest Chuho-myosai who rescued refugees in the famine.
The Main Hall was regrettably closed for the repair. Instead, Daishoin
(Temporary Main Hall) and the following buildings were specially open.
Daishoin Hall
Yotokuin-Otamaya
This is the memorial hall of Yotokuin, Date Masamune's wife.
Built originally by Tsunayoshi, their grand son in 1660, it was rebuilt
in the original style spending for 3 years from 2006.
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Zuiganji is one of the temples with Chusonji and Motsuji in Hiraizumi City,
and Risshakuji in Yamagata City among the pilgrimage course of "Visiting
Four Temples". All temples were opened by the priest Jikaku Daishi
Ennin.
Our couple have not visited Motsuji Temple yet. We are thinking to visit
it in the near future.
Matsuo Basho fulfilled this pilgrimage course during the trip of "The
Narrow Road to Oku". His visit to Zuiganji was on May 11 in Genroku
(June 27 in 1689), the next day of Matsushima. He did not create haiku
poem here either.
Zuiganji Temple, Other Pictures
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Godaido Hall
This hall belongs to Zuiganji Temple, but is located out of the precincts,
facing Matsushima Bay. We visited it just for a while.
The name Godaido (Hall of Five Greatest Wisdom Kings) comes from the story
that Ennin enshrined Five Greatest Wisdom Kings inside when he built it.
The hall in the present was rebuilt by Date Masamune in 1604 when he rebuilt
Zuiganji Temple. It is the oldest Momoyama-style building in Tohoku District.
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Shiogama Shrine
We dropped in at this temple on the way from Matsushima south to Goshiki-numa
Ponds.
From the shrine gate we climbed up gradual stone steps to the shrine.
In the precincts on the right were cherry trees designated as a special natural treasure, but they were in leaf out of the season.
According to Wikipedia about this shrine;
Known from the ninth century, fifteen of its buildings have been designated
Important Cultural Properties. Matsuo Basho recounts his visit in Oku no
Hosomichi, telling off the magnificent pillars, painted ceiling, long flight
of stone steps, votive lanterns, and the "sparkle of the vermilion
fence in the morning sun". |
Shiogama Shrine, Other Pictures
From here we were going to drive faraway south to the center part of Fukushima
Prefecture. While on the local road we saw rice fields of rich harvest
on both sides all the way. They were exactly golden waves of rice plants
putting yellow and gold together.
Strange!? In spite of such a deep emotion and the best front seat in the
bus, there is no photos taken. Why? Regretful!
We arrived at Hotel de Premiere Minowa just after 4:00 pm, which was located
by Inawasiro Lake and not far from Goshiki-numa Ponds. It looked high-grade,
busy in the skiing season.
We felt elegant mood until the late departure the next morning. I will
write the details about the hotel in the last chapter as one of the passages.
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Reading 14'50" |
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Part 0 |
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Outline of the Trip |
Part 1 |
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1st Day (Nikka Whisky Distillery) |
Part 2 |
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2nd Day (Matsushima, Zuiganji Temple) |
Part 3 |
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3rd Day (Goshiki-numa Ponds) |
Part 4 |
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Basho's "Ah, Matsushima!", Supermoon |
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