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Part 0 |
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Outline of the Trip |
Part 1 |
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1st Day (Nikka Whisky Distillery) |
Part 2 |
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2nd Day (Matsushima, Zuiganji Temple) |
Part 3 |
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3rd Day (Goshiki-numa Ponds) |
Part 4 |
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Basho's "Ah, Matsushima!", Supermoon |
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Part 1 First Day, Sep. 27 2015 |
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On Sunday, September 27, our couple, Emiko and I, left the condominium
at Tomioka, Urayasu City early morning at 7:00.
We got on the train of Musashino Line at Shin-Urayasu to Shin-Matsudo,
changed it there to Joban Line and got off at Matsudo Station at 8:30.
The large bus of Nanohana Traffic Co. with a toilet picked us up in front
of the Citizen's Theater near the station at 9:00.
The tour members were 16 people, 8 couples. Each of the couples was related to the birthday in September.
The bus was large enough for 45 people, so we were going to enjoy a comfortable
trip.
Our bus sped north along the Tohoku Expressway in a little bit of rain.
We took the lunch of boxed meal in the bus on the way, and arrived at the
first visiting place "Miyagi Gorge Distillery of Nikka Whisky"
at 14:00, the address of which was the number 1 of Nikka, Aoba Ward, Sendai
City.
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Miyagi Gorge Distillery of Nikka Whisky
This distillery is located around this area according to their handout.
Entering the site, we saw the factory buildings in the quiet woods through
the window.
It is Miyagikyo (Miyagi Gorge) Distillery in northern Japan, in Sendai
(lat.38 N), Miyagi Prefecture, northern Honshu.
According to the pamphlet, while travelling around this area one day in
1967, Masataka Taketsuru, the founder of Nikka Whisky, came upon the site
completely enclosed by mountains and sandwiched between two rivers. He
immediately knew that this was the perfect site for whisky distilling,
convinced that Sendai's fresh water, suitable humidity and crisp air must
produce soft and mild malt.
There were many tourists in the site. All of us knew the reason of visiting
here.
It is related to the TV drama "Massan", which was broadcast on NHK as the 91st Asadora (morning drama) from September 29, 2014, until March 28, 2015.
In fact, I never missed the drama even one day for half a year, recording
it during my absence since I am fond of drinking whisky.
Therefore our couple wished to visit the Yoichi Distillery in Hokkaido
of Massan's second hometown in the near future, but shamefully we did not
know this distillery near Sendai City until this trip. I couln't ask for
a better chance.
I look back on the TV drama with the help of Wikipedia.
Massan is based on the lives of Masataka Taketsuru and his wife Jessie
Roberta "Rita" Cowan, a Scotswoman Taketsuru met while studying
abroad in Scotland.
American actress Charlotte Kate Fox stars as Ellie Kameyama opposite Japanese
actor Tetsuji Tamayama as Masaharu Kameyama in a fictionalized account
of Rita's travels to Japan and Taketsuru's attempts to begin the Nikka
Whisky Distilling company. It is the first time that NHK's Asadora series
has featured a non-Japanese actor in a lead role. |
A lady staff guided us for nearly 1 hour by the fixed route.
Entering the guest hall, I tried the whiskies made here.
According to the document, "A former prime minister in the Great Britain
said that a Japanese wise young man stole a fountain pen and the secret
of whisky distilling". That young man created the whiskies of "Miyagi-Gorge",
"Taketsuru", "Super Nikka" and several others.
I tasted three brands and bought "Miyagi-Gorge" for my souvenir.
Emiko seemed to buy an apple juice.
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The next morning after we returned home, I found the interesting column
in the Mainichi Paper with good timing. It was about Super Nikka, which
it says is a long seller starting in 1962.
What a nice inside story about this whisky!
I decided to translate it into English as an enthusiastic fan of the TV
drama "Massan".
Mr. Taketsuru went abroad to Scotland to learn whisky-making, and he met
Rita there and got married.
He established his company in 1934 after returned to Japan.
Whisky needs years for maturing and at least 10 years for commodification.
During those days he managed to get the funds by making apple juice. Therefore
he named the company "Dai-Nippon-Kaju. Nikka stands for "Nippon-Kaju".
Nikka became a subsidiary to Asahi Group Holdings, but the company's name
and whiskies are still Nikka now.
Rita, his wife, who had experienced joys and sorrows together with Mr.
Taketsuru under the password "To make the genuine whisky in Japan",
died in 1961.
Since then Mr. Taketsuru shut himself up in the laboratory and compounded unblended malts again and again, and finally he made the new whisky "Super Nikka" the next year.
"Super" has the meaning of his belief that he had pursued and
raised the finest quality without any compromise for 10 years with his
late wife Rita.
The bottle is peculiar with a round shape which did not fit to mass production
then. He created the shape as the finest wedding dress, thinking Rita.
Super Nikka is mild, but tastes thick and strong.
Mr. Minowa, a whisky ambassador of Asahi Beer, says "It makes us associate
Lady Rita who had consideration and guts, helping Mr. Taketsuru of dream
abroad faraway from her home country.
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The Mainichi Paper as of Sep. 30, 2015 |
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I have my own tight relationship with Super Nikka.
Mr. Tatsuo Nakamura, my senior at university, was a deep lover of this
whisky. He is the model of a hero in my long novel "The Story of the
Auditorium Where Monsters Live". He made intimate friends with me
for years until he died at the age of 88.
He kept Super Nikka at the member salon "Ikkyo Club" on the 14th
floor of Josui Kaikan Hall, and enjoyed it on the rock every time with
me.
So, Super Nikka is now one of my finest friends at dinner. |
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I want to stay behind a little more.
Our couple joined the tour around Great Britain for 10 days in 2004.
The next day after arrived at Edinburgh in Scotland, we went north to Loch
Ness through Highland District. On the way, we dropped in at a distillery
of Scotch whisky.
I am going to refer to the passage of the travelogue "Great Britain
in 2004" (39th story of Zakki-cho).
No sooner than entering the motorway, appeared evergreen grasslands on
both sides and they lasted forever with fields of rape blossoms, daffodil
fields and grazing sheep here and there.
Our bus got down to a local road at the town of Pitlochry after 2-hour
driving north from Edinburgh. This area was the border between Lowland
and Highland.
The entrance to Blair Athol Distillery was right in front.
A little stream ran in a remote country, and there were old-fashioned buildings covering it. Fresh and quiet beauty.
"It is really a village of Scotch whisky!", I talked to myself. There was somewhat such a fragrant smell around.
I hear there are about 120 distilleries in Scotland. Most of them are under
the main blend makers.
Like so many others, this Blair Athol Distillery was Bell's subsidiary. But it was so proud of single-malt that the staff guide did not want to talk about the relations with Bell's.
"Whisky" is a mispronunciation of the Goedelic "Usquebaugh",
the word-origin of which is French "Eau de Vie".
According to Wikipedia:
All Scotch whisky was originally made from malted barley. Commercial distilleries began introducing whisky made from wheat and rye in the late 18th century. Scotch whisky is divided into five distinct categories: single malt Scotch whisky, single grain Scotch whisky, blended malt Scotch whisky (formerly called "vatted malt" or "pure malt"), blended grain Scotch whisky, and blended Scotch whisky.
All Scotch whiskies must be aged in oak barrels for at least three years.
Any age statement on a bottle of Scotch whisky, expressed in numerical
form, must reflect the age of the youngest whisky used to produce that
product. A whisky with an age statement is known as guaranteed-age whisky.
Malt whisky is made by putting malt into a kiln in the first processing
and drying it by peat. During this process its smell is created by the
smoke of peat. The differences of peat quantity specialize the taste of
each distillery.
We were guided from the germination process of barleys to the last process
of aging in oak casks.
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Nikka Miyagi-Gorge Distillery, Other Pictures
Today's hotel "Ryokusui-tei" was 30 minutes from the distillery
of "Miyagi Gorge" on the bus.
I had the dinner of the hotel's pride, tasting "Single-malt Miyagi-Gorge"
on the rock.
Our couple enjoyed the harvest moon before and after dinner.
I am going to write about the hotel in the last chapter.
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Reading 16'32" |
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Part 0 |
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Outline of the Trip |
Part 1 |
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1st Day (Nikka Whisky Distillery) |
Part 2 |
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2nd Day (Matsushima, Zuiganji Temple) |
Part 3 |
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3rd Day (Goshiki-numa Ponds) |
Part 4 |
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Basho's "Ah, Matsushima!", Supermoon |
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