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We toured around Andalucia area for 3 days from May 12 afternoon.
The famous sightseeing cities, Cordoba, Granada and Sevilla, are scattered
around this region of mountains plains. Therefore we could enjoy the scenery
unique to this area spreading out over the window of the bus too.
Mijas, facing the Mediterranean Sea, had a very diferrent atmosphere with
a row of white houses.
During these 3 days, we tasted with lyricism the climate peculiar to Andalucia
and the historical heritages left by Islamic culture.
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Córdoba, May 12
We left the hotel in Madrid at 8:00 am, dropped in on the way at a village
in La Mancha District to see the windmills written in the previous chapter,
and headed for Cordoba to get there at 1:00 pm. Our bus drove more than
300 km so far.
After late lunch of seasonal-vegetable soup in the center of Cordoba, we
saw the sights in its historic area for one hour and a half.
We entered Mezquita, Islamic Temple. The Spanish official name is: "Catedral de Santa María de Córdoba".
Mezquita is a symbol of the Islam-Dynasty prosperous from 8th to 11th century
and one of the largest mosques in the world.
Repetitious all right, but Catholic culture after Reconquista well retained
the Islamic culture of this building as its original form. I felt benefitted
seeing the arabesque design of mosaic and the hollow of the wall decorated
with Arabic letters.
The local guide seemed to skip the explanation a little bit, perhaps wondering
about the short time, but it was also regrettable for a good understanding.
It was also a shame only to pass by the rugged paths in the old Jewish
town around Mezquita. Everybody wanted to walk slowly looking over the
patios decorated with flower beds.
We are now in Cordoba. Our hotel tonight is planned more than 150 km south
away in Granada, and it is 4:00 pm now.
If our schedule were slower, we would stay here one night. But we signed
up for this tour knowing this tightness perfectly.
Looking over the outside views through the window, I decided to listen to Falla's "Nights in the Gardens of Spain" with headphone. As I mentioned before, the pianist is Larrocha with Suisse Romande conducted by Comissiona.
Set to repeat the same music, now it is the 3rd time. The rhythm of the piano assimilated itself to the scenery of the plains glowing in the evening sun, which led me romantic and sentimental.
Just as his ballet music of "El Amor Brujo" and "The Three
Cornered Hat"shows it well, Falla must have had a special fondness
for the flamenco, a folk dance in Andalucia.
This piano concerto, too, has a peculiar taste of quiet emotion and oppressed
passion.
It quietly leads to Palace Gardens in Andalucia in the 1st movement "En
el Generalife" (In the Generalife), and it goes on to be lifted up
through the 2nd movement "Danza Lejana" (A Distant Dance) to
the 3rd movement "En los Jardines de la Sierra de Cordoba" (In
the Gardens of the Sierra de Cordoba).
The playing time is 24'24". |
I had deeper impression on this ancient city listening to the music, and
wanted to stay one night here and to be indulged in the night of Spanish
gardens.
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Our bus ran smooth and fast along the plains under the sunset with dim
crimson cloud.
Not knowing, I was humming to myself "Small Sky" written and
composed by Toru Takemitsu. Emiko looked perplexed at first, but followed
me without notice.
The passing views over the window looked melancholy and bitter sweet, which
matched with both the melody and words of Takemitsu.
Under the self-satisfaction "Better accompanied by the guitar",
I considered the words of the 2nd verse suited well with the afterglow
of Cordoba and the scenery from the window.
Looking at the sunset,
The stained glass of a church
was glittering red vividly.
I remembered my childhood.
For too much mischief
I was scolded and cried. |
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Part 4 Andalucia Cordoba Reading: 7' 47" |
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Granada, May 12-13
As mentioned above, on may 12, our large bus ran a long long way from Madrid
via Cordoba to Granada for 600 km, and finally arrived at the hotel Alixares
del Generalife just before 20:00 pm.
This laid-back hotel was near Alhambra, and its name was because it faced
Generalife.
We had smorgasbord dinner in the hotel. At the table the Espana T shirt
was gifted to me by the travel agency since it was my 65th birthday.
The couple in the front of the photo are Mr. and Mrs. O. They took care
of us very much during the trip.
Mr. O presented his two books to me when he finally left us at Narita Airport.
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My Nobunaga Oda |
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Silk Road in October |
Granada flourished as the dynasty capital from the year of 1238 when the
kingdom started until the completion of Reconquista in 1492.
Needless to say, Alhambra here is the symbol of the Islamic civilization.
We are going to enjoy the atmosphere with rich taste of the ancient capital
for a whole day tomorrow on May 13.
Palacio de la Alhambra
(Alhambra Palace)
Now it is May13.
The size of Alhambra is too large to look around in one day. We visited
only Palacios of Nazaries called as the key in there and Generalife Garden
out of the Palace.
Palacios Nazaries brought us to the world of fantasy at the moment to see
the exterior.
We were amazed by the pond widened within Patio de los Arrayanes and the
Palace reflected on its surface.
The next was Patio de los Leones. The fountain had the shape of a lion.
The landscape of many pillars on the balcony was splendid from this side.
It was really the Islamic art.
In each of the hall Sala del Rey and Sala de las Dos Hermanas, various
kinds of pictures on the ceiling were gorgeous, which pained my neck.
Alhambra had a good landscape.
The following picture is the view of Albaicín, which is the area with the trace of the streets and houses in the Islamic
days.
Now the garden of Generalife.
It is located north of Alhambra and in the Hill of the Sun.
"Patio de la Acequia" is said to be well preserved among the
Islamic buildings around Andalucia. I was fascinated by the narrow pond
and the flower beds alongside.
Falla must have come up with the first movement of that piano concerto
here.
"Recuerdos de la Alhambra" by Francisco Tarrega is a short piece
of a couple of minutes, but this music is associated with my memory of
this Palace. It must be a repertoire of every guitarist. I prefer the playing
of Narciso Yepes after all.
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Mijas, May 13
The coast of 300 km along the Mediterranean Sea from Gibraltar Straits
where Spain borders on Morocco of Africa is called Costa del Sol. There
are excellent sightseeing places alongside and Mijas is one of them.
We drove 160 km west after touring in Granada and arrived at Mijas at noon.
The view of the sea from the heights of 420 meters above the sea level
was superb, and more than that, a row of white houses were chic, to say
nothing about it.
Blessed by a fine weather, we walked around peacefully along the artistic
paths.
We missed to ride a popular donkey taxi, but had a comfortable rest, seeing
such sights well gathered together as Plaza Virgen de la Pena, a bullring,
an observatory, etc.
At a souvenir shop, Emiko seemed to like a necklace of shells, and I bought
a straw hat of Costa del Sol.
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Part 4 Andalucia Granada Reading: 6' 52" |
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Sevilla, May 13-14
The name of the city is definately with the overture of "The Barber
of Seville" in my mind. It is a light and humorous tune.
I did not have any other preliminary knowledge about the city Sevilla.
In the afternoon, May 13, our bus drove west from Mijas, the city of white
walls, and got to the hotel "Silken al Andalus Palace"in Sevilla
in the evening, which had been selected for the convenience to tour the
historic area. The hotel, however, was so gorgeous itself and high-ranked
that it was too good for one-night stay only.
We enjoyed the flamenco show with dinner from 7:00 to 8:30 pm at the tablao
"El Arenal" (a club of flamenco) of 200-people capacity.
Flamenco is not merely a gypsy dance. A rose hair ornament, a flamenco
guitar, a dress, and especially a shawl.
"It is really a Spanish culture", Ms. Y, our attendant, explained,
a little shrill with excitement.
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The next morning, on May 14, we left the hotel as early as 8:00, and toured
the two historic areas.
Sevilla is the state capital of Andalucia local government, populated by
about 710 thousand people.
It is an ancient city of Islamic culture for nearly 600 years since 8th century until Christian culture took back the power in the middle of 15th century by Reconquista.
If we had stayed here for a couple of days, we would have experienced personally
the conflict of the both cultures and how they were followed to the present
city with a lifelike view.
Nevertheless, I was a little satisfied even though we just dropped in at
only the following two areas this time.
Seville Cathedral and the Giralda Bell Tower
This Seville Cathedral was built under such expectation as large enough to be insane. It was completed in 1519 for over 100 years. 116 meters deep and 76 meters wide, it is the largest in Spain, and the third largest after St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican and St. Paul's Cathedral in London all over Europe.
We passed through the Door of Forgiveness and the Orange Patio, and then
entered the Cathedral.
Regrettably "No Camera". I can only say I was amazed at the dazzling
luxury inside. Sorry I give up listing the key names we looked around,
because I don't have them in English or Spanish.
The bell tower "Giralda", one of the symbols of Sevilla, is 97.5
meters high. It was built at the end of 12th century by Muslims as Minaret
of the Mosque. The present Giralda is the one which was recovered from
the destruction by the earthquake in 16th century.
The tip is 4 meters high and 1.3 tons heavy, and this tower was named so
(a weathercock) because the tip spins against the wind, according to the
lady guide.
Real Alcázar de Sevilla
(Royal Palace in Seville)
We passed under this Lion's Gate. The arch is a relic of Islamic culture.
It is the palace of the Spanish Royal Family. According to the guide, it
began to be built at the former site of Islamic Palace, conscious of Alhambra
in Granada, but was gradually mixed with Gothique and Renaissance style
by the additional constructions.
We could not enter it.
We gathered back together to Plaza de España at 11:00, and that was all
for the sightseeing around Sevilla.
Now we are leaving Spain for Evora, Portugal.
On the way we encountered the cheerful parade of the spring festival. Young
and adult, all showy. They excited us for a while too.
We were lucky. It was one of the three greatest festivals in Spain.
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Other Pictures in Córdoba |
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Other Pictures in Granada |
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Other Pictures in Mijas |
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Other Pictures in Sevilla |
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Other Pictures between Sevilla and Évora |
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Paco de Lucía
There are several famous cities like Sevilla, Cordoba and Granada in Andalucia
District.
WIKIPEDIA says about this area as follows.
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Andalucia is in the south of the Iberian peninsula, immediately south of
the autonomous communities of Extremadura and Castile–La Mancha; west of
the autonomous community of Murcia and the Mediterranean Sea; east of Portugal
and the Atlantic Ocean; and north of the Mediterranean Sea and the Strait
of Gibraltar. Andalucia is the only European region with both Mediterranean
and Atlantic coastlines. The small British overseas territory of Gibraltar
shares a three-quarter-mile land border with the Andalucian province of
Cádiz at the eastern end of the Strait of Gibraltar. |
The reason why I am concerned about Andalucía is because its name reminds
me of Paco de Lucía, a famous flamenco guitarist.
When and where was it I saw his live performance? It must have been some
30 years ago in Tokyo because it was around when I was transferred to Tokyo
Office during working for Daido Steel. I can never have forgotten about
his name with his tremendous play.
During this trip I bought several CDs played by the guitar and the flamenco
guitar at some service area around Granada. Among them is "Paco de
Lucía", in which are 10 musics. "Entre dos aguas", "Zorongo
gitano", "Malaguena", "Gitanos trianeros", .....
Besides the acrobatic playing, everything hits me saying "This is
Spain."
His real name "Francisco Sánchez Gomes" is now irrelevant.
Since he was born in the vicinity of Cádiz of Andalucia in 1947, his name "Paco de Lucía" may mean Paco
of Andalucia. I believe so.
I am self-satisfied listening to his playing, feeling that Paco is bringing
to me the early summer breeze of Andalucia with different taste from Yepes
and Segovia.
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