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Part 1 Hagi Museum,
Shokason-juku |
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Our couple, Emiko and I, visited Hagi City, Yamaguchi Prefecture, twice
in spring 2012.
First, early in April, we enjoyed a carefree time there, making use of
the free tour of Hankyu Trapics and staying at Grand Hotel "Tenku"
for 3 consecutive nights.
Second, in mid May, we joined the 3-day tour around Chugoku Region sponsored
by Club Tourism. It included the sightseeing and one-night stay in Hagi.
This travelogue will appear in another story.
The first trip was realized by the odd result that we wanted to stay in
a spa somewhere and checked suitable places in a couple of guidebooks.
Hagi is not a spa spot but was interesting to us.
Flied from Haneda to Ube Airport where a hotel shuttle bus was waiting
for us.
3-night stay with every breakfast and dinner. Our purpose was just to relax.
Therefore we did not make any preparation for what was Hagi City. Even
so we at least knew that Hagi City was where Shoin Yoshida was born at
the end of the Edo period and the domain of Mohri Family in the Warring
States period.
Compared to my poor knowledge, the town was so attractive to let us walk
a lot. Scenery, history, local vegetables and fish, Chinese citron......
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Our couple stayed in Hagi City for 4 days, April 1st thru 4th, 2012.
Like I mentioned above, both of us had no definite motivation to visit
this place at the time. Emiko may have wanted some material for her haiku
poem, and had an interest in Hagi pottery and the Japan Sea. She rather
wanted to go to Izumo Grand Shrine and Tottori Sand Dunes though.
For myself, I just wanted a change of air, after I had been a little too busy since autumn last year. The travel around Baltic Countries and Poland for 12 days, that was in December. Urayasu International Center (UIC) had planned the report meeting for myself after the travel. Therefore I had been busy working prestudy before the start too.
Caught up in this event, the long essay I had been writing since a half
year ago, had to be discontinued for a while. It was about my office-worker
days between the age of 20s and 60s, which I completed later as a novel
titled "My Hayatama Steel Days".
After the report meeting at UIC, I spent a couple of months to complete
this overseas travelogue and finished it in late January. And then working
for the restarted above novel, I really wanted to take a rest somewhere
away from home. I did not care wherever it was. That's why the travel to
Hagi was realized.
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We arrived at Hagi Grand Hotel "Tenku" at 11:00 by the hotel
shuttle bus. We decided to stroll around and left the hotel with a simple
map of the city, thinking to have lunch somewhere. It was fine and warm
with no wind.
We came to Ganjima Bridge over Matsumoto River, and walked along the river
a little farther to the left, when the sea appeared in an inner bay. It
seemed to be a local fishing port. It must be facing the Japan Sea beyond.
Walking with a view of the calm sea about 1 km, we looked around some restaurant in vain. As we did not feel hungry, we decided to go back to the hotel for the time being. It was just before 1 o'clock.
There was unexpectedly a nice-looking seafood restaurant "Hagi Shinkai"
near the hotel. The fish preserve was seen from the entrance. We were guided
to the front seat.
Our lunch was gorgeous under the master's advice, with full of fresh raw
fishes caught in the surrounding sea.
Satisfied in body and heart with local raw fishes including blowfish and
tilefish, we strolled around again and learnt the local climate and history
like an overnight cramming.
Walking over and over back and forth far south to the city hall, we finally
realized it was nearly evening. This long walking made our stay there after
that fruitful.
The town was comparatively consentrated in the center, with a traditional
atmosphere similar to the map of Edo period.
Two whole days from the next became a little too short with various kinds of sights to visit.
There was a convenient transportation for sightseeing in the city. It was
a mini bus called Hagi Cycle Bus "Mawaru", which had two directions,
the eastward course "Teacher Shoin" and the westward course "Boy
Shinsaku". Each of them served every 30 minutes, circling the city
and stopping at all sight spots.
100 yen per ride wherever you go, but we bought a 2-day ticket for 700
yen and used it a lot of times.
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The following is the history of Hagi City introduced in Wikipedia. |
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In the medieval period, Hagi was dominated by the Yoshimi clan, who built
Hagi Castle, the ruins of which can be visited today. The Mohri clan became
daimyo of Choshu Domain at the beginning of the Edo period and built Hagi
Castle at the foot of Mt. Shizuki in 1608. They transferred the capital
of the domain from Hiroshima to Hagi at the same time. Since then, Hagi
developed as the political center of Choshu for over 250 years.
When the Meiji Restoration came about in the 1860s, as the result of efforts
by samurai from Choshu and a number of other domains, this small city gained
great historical significance. Many Japanese statesmen and Prime Ministers
were born and brought up in this city.
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Hagi Museum
The gate was magnificent. We went through without hesitation. The front
cover of the leaflet said "This museum is the City Tour Starting Point
".
It was true. The keep and the secondary bailey were where the lord Mohri
of Choshu Domain lived. The third bailey was the living area of chief retainers
and samurais. Hagi Museum was said to be designed in the place and built
as such a warrior's residence. Yes, the museum perfectly fitted the old
circumstances.
Mr. H, a curator, guided our couple kindly and courteously.
Though I was aware that this town had infrangible relationship with the
last days of the Tokugawa Shogunate, especially Shoin Yoshida and Shinsaku
Takasugi, it had much more long history.
The Historical Exibition Room showed the history of 260 years from the
time Mohri Terumoto, a grand child of Motonari, built Hagi Castle in 1604
to Meiji Restoration (in the 1800s). Yes, Hagi is a historic castle town.
The pictures of 100 famous people from the last days of Tokugawa Shogunate
until today were posted at the "Historical figures in Hagi" corner.
(Sorry, this part is skipped in English version.)
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Shokason-juku
(a private school operated by Shoin Yoshida)
I remember well the Shoin Shrine at Setagaya-ward, Tokyo. It is near Sangenjaya.
When entered Hitotsubashi University after studying an extra year, I was
boarding at Shimodaita in the opposite direction of Shoin Shrine from Sangenjaya.
It was the shrine I visited before the examination and after the success.
This Shoin Shrine in Hagi City where Shoin Yoshida was born is in fact
famous for Shokason-juku in the precincts.
It was built in 1907, Meiji period, by the petition of Hirobumi Itoh, Yasushi
Nomura and other graduates from Shokason-juku.
Nowadays Shoin Shrine is admired most as the god of literature in Hagi
City, so that a lot of people pay the New Year's first visit there.
Shoin Shrine
We skipped the house of Shoin Yoshida as a prisoner (Shoin History Hall)
and the treasury "Shisei-kan" next to Shokason-juku.
I had expected too much that this school must have been a dignified appearance,
as it was so famous.
How amazing it was, such a gazebo used to be one of the indispensable sources
of Meiji Restoration. It somewhat confused me, but on the other hand made
me feel the breath of pride from the circumstances.
This school was opened by Bunnoshin Tamaki, Shoin's uncle, in 1842, Edo
period. Shoin learnt here and succeeded the teacher after 15 years though
he was a prisoner, and guided the young generation for about 2 years here
until put to death.
It will be unfair not to write Shoin Yoshida and Shinsaku Takasugi, in
spite of visiting Hagi City. But shamefully I have no knowledge to introduce
them. I am going to have the help of Wikipedia for my study. Attached please
take a look clicking each underline.
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Oya omou kokoro ni masaru oyagokoro
Kyo no otozure nanto kikuran
(Shoin Yoshida)
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Parental Love Superior to
Child's Considerarion to Parents.
How Will They Feel Today's News? |
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I just happened to read a pocket-sized edition "The Study of Rivals
in History" (published by PHP). It is a talk between Mr. Yuji Aida
and Eiichi Yazawa.
In it there was a story of the rivals "Hirobumi Itoh, an optimist,
and Aritomo Yamagata, a pessimist. Both of them are from Choshu Domain
(around Hagi City), learned under Shoin at Shokason-juku and were around
the same age (Yamagata, 3 years older).
Itoh joined the activities to revere the Emperor and expel the barbarians,
following Koin Kido.
Yamagata became the chief of the Irregular Militia commanded by Shinsaku
Takasugi.
Both served as Prime Minister in later years.
Mr. Aida and Mr. Yazawa talk about the differences of their characteristics
and behaviors freely as follows.
Hirobumi Itoh |
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Aritomo Yamagata |
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lecherous, caring little about money, clean |
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opposite |
entered the school by the senior's advice |
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entered the school by his own desire |
lack of desire to succeed |
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much desire to succeed |
activity on the sharp intuition, providency, possibility, democracy |
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based on experience, sincere, understanding, tenacious, obsessive |
planner |
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doer |
liked by Meiji Emperor |
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disliked by Meiji Emperor |
made a party |
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made a faction |
assassinated at the Harbin Station in 1909 at the age of 68 |
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died by the cause of right-wingers' attck in 1922 at the age of 83 |
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Reading: 17' 49" |
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